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The Manuscript Recipes of a Cook to the King and Kaiser of Germany
Berlin, 1892. Bound manuscript. (29.5 cm x. 24.5 cm x 6.9 cm). 788 pages. 1-38 (index) 39-788 (1,423 recipes). Containing fourteen hundred twenty-three recipes in a neat secretarial hand. Index in French; recipes titled in French with German subtitles; recipe text German. Decorative endpapers; all edges gilt. Gilt-decorated spine with five raised bands. Blind decorated covers in full brown morocco. Some scratches on covers, not to boards. Bit of sunning to front cover. Front joint starting. 3 mm x 5 mm of board showing on head of rear board. Extremely minor tilt. Text block in fine condition, and overall very good. A presentation copy. A rare comprehensive historical record of the food of the highest classes in Berlin in the late 1800s, including the King and Kaiser of Germany. An exclusive window on culinary culture at the German court. These are the recipes of A. Huster, Hof-Traiteur Seiner Majestät des Kaisers und Königs [Cook to his Majesty the Kaiser and King] an official title granted by the Kaiser and abbreviated to Hof-Traiteur. Adolf Huster was a cook who in 1868 became Hof-Traiteur. In 1873 he purchased a commercial building at Mohrenstraße 49, Berlin and from it operated the private dining hall known as Das Englische Haus. The property could not operate publicly as the Kaiser was not allowed to eat food prepared in public establishments. Mohrenstraße 49 is located adjacent to Gendarmenmarkt, then as today a cultural highlight of Berlin. The luxury chocolatier Fassbender & Rausch is presently at the approximate location. In addition to Huster's role as Hof-Traiteur, Das Englische Haus became the premier private dining establishment of Berlin: „Die besten Kreise Berlins feierten bei Huster, dessen auf große Gesellschaften eingerichtete „Stadtküche" zur unentbehrlichen Einrichtung selbst des Hofes geworden war; in Seinem „Englischen Haus" in der Mohrenstraße feierte die „gute Gesellschaft" und gab sich die Hautevolee von Industrie und Börse glänzende Feste." [The best social circles of Berlin celebrated at Huster. Huster's city kitchen was arranged for large parties and even became an indispensible accommodation to the King's Court. Englisches Haus at the Mohrenstraße is where the „high society" had their festivals and where the upper crust from industry and the stock market gave themselves magnificent feasts.] Annemarie Lange. Berlin zur Zeit Bebels und Bismarcks (Dietz Verlag, Berlin 1976, pages 507-508). In 1883 Adolf Huster retired and A. Huster, Hof-Traiteur continued as a company. Starting in 1889, the owners of A. Huster were Ernst Brandt and Max Huster. Brandt had been an employee of Adolf Huster and learned to cook under his guidance. Max Huster was likely the son of Adolf Huster. In 1892 Max Huster transfered his interest in A. Huster to Ernst Brandt. Adolf Huster, who had retained ownership of the real estate after his retirement, also transferred ownership of Mohrenstraße 49 to Ernst Brandt. In 1893 Max Huster disappears from residential and commercial listings of Berlin. Police registration records as reprinted in the 1893 Berlin Adreßbuch include the following business listing: „A. Huster. Hof-Traiteur Seiner Majestät des Kaisers und Königs, Koch auf Bestellung und Weingroßhandel., W Mohrenstraße 49. F. Englisches Haus. Inhaber Ernst Brandt." [A. Huster. Cook to his Majesty the Kaiser and King, cook to order and wine wholesale., W Mohrenstraße 49. F. Englisches Haus. Owner: Ernst Brandt.] It is likely Max Huster commissioned the manuscript as a gift to Ernst Brandt to commemorate the 1892 change in ownership, and that the manuscript embodies the symbolic transfer of Adolf Huster's recipes to Ernst Brandt. The inscription reads: "Meinem verehrten Freund und Socius Ernst Brandt zur freundlichen Erinnerung an der Zeit unseres Zusammenwirkens. Berlin den 26. September 1892. Max Huster." [To my revered friend and associate Ernst Brandt for friendly remembrance of the time of our cooperation. Berlin the 26th of September 1892. Max Huster.] This beautiful manuscript of 1,423 recipes covers a wide range of French cooking. Each recipe is linked to other recipes by number, an incredible feat for a 788 page manuscript. Recipes include filets, soufflés, risotto, croquettes foie gras, fish, pigeon, et cetera. For example, recipes 266 through 343 are only sauces. These in turn are divided into Grades Sauces capitals (266 through 271), Sauces Simples (272 through 292) and Sauces de Reduction (293 through 343). Some sauce recipes are a mere three sentences. Others, such as Number 266, Sauce Espagnole, take well over a page. Recipes 837 through 858 are solely purees for garnishment purposes. Recipes 1,132 through 1,141 are patés. Sample recipe titles include: Potage crème de chicoree a la Colbert; Cotelettes de veau braises a la Dreux; and Filets de merlans a la d'Orleans. An exquisite manuscript of significant importance.
      [Bookseller: Rabelais - Fine Books on Food & Drink]
Last Found On: 2015-12-22           Check availability:      Biblio    

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