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2020-09-28 20:38:07
VON DER MUHLL G
Cours De Theorie Pour Le Tissage Professe Par J Berjon
Lyon. G von der Muhll's 1899 manuscript Elephant folio details his work on a course on jacquard weaving taught by J Berjon at the Palais des Beaux Arts in Lyon. He probably took the course at night-school and on day release while working as a silk weaver's assistant. His visually attractive presentation combines faultless handwriting, coloured hand-produced block weave diagrams, detailed drawings of jacquard looms and their warp control mechanisms and examples of punched cards; but its most attractive feature is the descriptions of the required yarns, the weave diagram and weaving instructions for 68 non-jacquard fabrics (taffetas, satins, velours etc) and 38 jacquard fabrics, a sample of the fabric produced being attached in each case. In 1804 Joseph-Marie Jacquard introduced to the 300 year-old Lyon silk industry his automatic loom control system for the weaving of complex hand-drawn pictorial designs, a local speciality, the weaving of which required, for each pass of the weft, the ability to raise or not raise each warp yarn so that the weft passed under it or over it according to the pattern. This had so far been done by a "draw-boy" sitting on top of the loom lifting lines attached to the warps by hooks. Jacquard's new system, which could be retrofitted on top of existing looms, automated the lifting process using packs of punched cards tailored to each design. The resulting Jacquard Loom reduced labour costs and lead times, shortened the time to change to another fabric, increased repeat lengths and gave more flexibility to fabric designers. In 1805 Napoleon assigned … [Click Below for Full Description]
Bookseller: David Rigby - Rare Textile Books [Stockport, United Kingdom]
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