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12 Issues of Gazette du Bon Ton, Art - Modes & Frivolités containing 85 pochoir plates [WITH] Framed pochoir: La Fontaine de Coquillages, Robe du soir de Paquin by Georges Barbier (1914)
Emile Levy; Editions Lucien Vogel; Condé Nast 1912-1925, Paris - This handsome collection of material from the Belle Epoque and Post WWI Fashion Era is composed of:- 12 partly complete issues of "La Gazette du Bon Ton" containing a total of 85 striking pochoir plates. "La Gazette du Bon Ton"was a leading fashion magazine that was published in France from November 1912 to 1925. Founded in 1912 by Lucien Vogel, the magazine covered the latest developments in fashion, lifestyle, and beauty, and was distributed first by Emile Levy, then Condé Nast. The magazine signed exclusive contracts with seven of Paris's top couture houses – Louise Chéruit, Georges Doeuillet, Jacques Doucet, Jeanne Paquin, Paul Poiret, Redfern & Sons, and Charles Worth – so that the designers' fashions were shown only in the pages of the Gazette. After World War I, a select group of designers were added – Étienne Drian, Gustav Beer, Kriegck, Larsen, and Martial & Armand. The magazine's title was derived from the French concept of bon ton, or timeless good taste and refinement. It also aimed to establish fashion as an art alongside painting, sculpture, and drawing: according to the magazine's first editorial, "The clothing of a woman is a pleasure for the eye that cannot be judged inferior to the other arts." To elevate the Gazette's literary status, the magazine featured essays on fashion by established writers from other fields, including novelist Marcel Astruc, playwright Henri de Regnier, decorator Claude Roger-Marx, and art historian Jean-Louis Vaudoyer. Their contributions ranged in tone from irreverent to ironic and mocking. The centerpiece of the Gazette was its fashion illustrations. Each issue featured ten full-page fashion plates (seven depicting couture designs and three inspired by couture but designed solely by the illustrators) printed with the color pochoir technique. It employed many of the most famous Art Deco artists and illustrators of the day, including Georges Barbier*, Erté (Romain de Tirtoff), Paul Iribe, Guy Arnoux, Pierre Brissaud, André Edouard Marty, Thayaht (Ernesto Michahelles), Georges Lepape, Edouard Garcia Benito, Soeurs David (David Sisters), Pierre Mourgue, Robert Bonfils, Bernard Boutet de Monvel, Maurice Leroy, and Zyg Brunner, who all, rather than simply drawing a mannequin in the outfit, like most previous fashion illustrators, depicted the model in various dramatic and narrative situations. The collection runs as follow: Issue No 1 (1912), lacking plates # 2 and 8; No. 9 (July 1913), spine missing and covers detached (but present). Lacking plate # 7; No. 3 (1920). Complete; No. 7 (1920). Lacking 3 plates; No. 8 (1920). Complete; No. 9 (1920). Lacking 1 plate, and missing pages 273 to 276; No. 10 (1921), spine missing and covers detached (but present). Lacking 1 plate; No. 1 (1922). Complete with all its plates, but lacking pages 17 to 24; No. 7 (1922), Complete; No. 10 (1922). Complete of its pochoir plates, but lacking 8 etched plates (I to VIII); No. 10 (June 1924). Complete; No. 6 (1924-1925). Spine missing and covers detached (but present). Lacking 1 plate, and missing pages 293 to 296. Text in French. Wrappers in overall fair, interior in good+ to very good, plates in very good condition.- Framed hand-colored illustration "pochoir" of a Paul Poiret evening gown "La Fontaine de coquillages," by George Barbier The plate was originally issued in "Gazette du Bon Ton" No. 3, (Plate 27, 1914). Size of frame: 17 1/2 x 15". Image size: 7 3/4 x 6". Frame and pochoir in very good condition. * George Barbier (1882-1932) was one of the key artists of the "Art Deco" movement and one of the most prestigious French artist’s and fashion illustrators to emerge from post World War I in the early twentieth century. He produced the most exquisite, high-color fashion plates for the couturier Paul Poiret, as well as contemporaries Lanvin, Paquin and Vionnet. His elegantly refined, graphic style was typical of the "Art Deco" school and the influences of Orientalism, antique vases, Indian miniatures, Au [Attributes: First Edition; Signed Copy; Soft Cover]
      [Bookseller: ERIC CHAIM KLINE, BOOKSELLER (ABAA ILAB)]
Last Found On: 2015-03-19           Check availability:      AbeBooks    

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