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Mode 1914/5. Herausgegeben von Prof. Josef - WIENER WERKSTĂ„TTE - 1914. [1199331]
Vienna Verlag von Eduard Kosmack -1915 1914 - 12 fascicules in 1 volume, folio. Leaf with manuscript title in black ink recto and colophon verso and 144 linocut, woodcut, lithograph or etched plates on handmade laid tissue, each with additional colouring by hand by the relevant artist, a large number signed or initialled in pencil by the relevant artist, with the stamped plate number, all mounted to large sheets of stiff japon card and with manuscript Hefte and plate number beneath in blue or black ink; printed list of contents of each Hefte ruled in red and pasted to inner boards of original portfolio. (Sheet size: 37.6 x 25.4 cm; plate size: c.30.4 x 21.3 cm). Loose as issued in original publisher's marbled board portfolio with gilt flaps, square title lable mounted to front board, inner boards with pasted on list of plates for each fascicule. The publisher's unique example of the very rare hand-coloured Wiener Werkstätte fashion portfolio 'Mode'. From the edition limited to 50 copies (only 35 for sale), with this unique copy assembled for the publisher Eduard Kosmack including the best pulls of the prints and five additional prints not used in the published edition (see transcribed colophon below); this example includes captions to each plate providing the Hefte and plate numbers. This very rare fashion portfolio was produced by the fashion department of the Wiener Werkstätte under the aegis of Josef Hoffmann at a time when the domestic Austrian market for fashion was growing. The contributors were the teachers and students of the department, many of them young women. The designs they produced vary enormously in stylistic terms, ranging between those influenced by Expressionism and Die Brücke and those influenced by the Parisian designs of Paul Poiret; many of the designs - and it must be understood that the majority of the contributors were not fashion designers in any traditional sense - demonstrate remarkable originality in terms of methodology, content and design. All copies of 'Mode' differ necessarily: the prints were coloured by hand and were printed by the twenty-five individual contributors themselves. The present example features markedly different colouring (as well as some minor differences in captioning) and printing to that exhibited at the Germanisches Nationalmuseum Nürnberg in 1984 and depicted in the catalogue 'Wiener Charme. Mode 1914/15. Graphiken und Accessoires'. In addition, the Nürnberg copy does not include the hand-written title leaf with the colophon verso present here which adds to the bibliographical record - an article published in April 1915 in the 'Neue Badische Landeszeitung' provides some of the few extant details - concerning 'Mode'. While the catalogue Wiener Charme suggests that 'Mode' was not an official production of the Wiener Werkstätte, the manuscript title makes it clear that 'Mode' was produced under the aegis of Josef Hoffmann and the contributors were both the students and the teachers at the Werkstätte's newer iteration, the Kunstgewerbe Schule. The contents leaf for each Heft is here pasted to the inner board of the portfolio and the order of the first three unnumbered and dated Hefte differs from that given in the Nürnberg copy. The twenty-five contributors to the work and the number of prints they contributed are as follows: Maria Likarz (11), Fritzi Löw (18), Irene 'Reni' Schaschl (15), Grete von Noë / Noé (5), Eduard Josef Wimmer (3), Arnold Nechansky (1), Dagobert Peche (7), Anny Schröder (17), Oskar Strnad (1), Gustav Tejcken (2), Mathilde 'Hilde' Flögl / Flöge (2), Hilda Jesser (17), Max Schnischek (6), Ernst Lichtblau (2), Paul Thomas (2), Lotte Colm / Calm (11), Felice Rix (6), Ada Helena Gabler (1), Wilhelm Foltin (2), Otto Lendecke (5), Gertrude Weinberger (1), Gabi Möschl (5), Josef Gabriel (2), Mary Ilse Lodron (1) and Wally Wieselthier (1). The additional prints in the present example are: linocut by Maria Likarz inscribed in ink: 'Probedruck. Ausser der Reihe. Nicht in der Auflage enthalten.'; woodcut by Da [Attributes: Signed Copy; Soft Cover]
      [Bookseller: Shapero Rare Books]
Last Found On: 2016-09-18           Check availability:      ZVAB    

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